This is becoming a bad habit. I again will attempt to combine two days of packed activities into one post. These last two days have been so action packed that I haven't had a chance to catch up here. Maybe I could... should have done a little bit every so often to make this work. However, that's just not how I write. I have to do it all in one shot. So. Here's to the one shot of two days.
Yesterday, around eleven in the morning, Johann, Cheryl, and I began our adventure. We headed north out of the site, along the same road Johann and I had ventured out on in the pouring rain. It was a whole different world when you're not soaking wet. The sky was attempting to clear up and in the process was letting us see much more of the view. We quickly revisited the cemetery, climbed to the top, and laughed at how we had seen nothing the day before. Then we ventured onwards.
We walked around the countryside for over an hour. I guess I must be very naive because I had never considered the countryside of China. I'd always thought about the cities and such. The vibrant green colors radiate from every nook. Birds sang joyful songs about sunshine finally. Waterfalls cascaded between the green trees. Fishermen and farmers worked diligently as we peered on with curious eyes. We walked through one village at one point. Everyone came out of their houses to see us. They called out to us, laughing with exuberance. Cheryl loudly talked with them only to cause more excitement. She told us they would talk about this for the rest of the day. I didn't think of taking pictures of the people. Yes, you may scold me for that. I believe Johann did sneak pictures if you are this interested. Anyway. It was a wonderful walk. Cheryl told us stories of China and her time here. She told us all the "local info" about places and answered every question we had. Johann and I thanked her multiple times for taking us under her wing. We would have never ended up there without her help.
We ended up in Liaou, a small village. The streets were busy with people. Stores were open but not overly abundant with people. Everyone on their own mission.
Our mission when we arrived was food. We went to a little restaurant that Cheryl liked. We were the only people in the room. The three of us sat down on plastic stools at a woobly table. The room was decorated with pictures of goats and lambs. That's right! They served goat and lamb. Luckily, Cheryl was an expert and ordered us all a dish. I can't help but wonder about that time when Johann and I go out to eat and we don't have someone to translate along with us. Nothing better than pointing to a menu and hoping it works out.
This meal however totally worked out. In fact, it was delicious. I had told Cheryl I am a wimp about spicy food. She did her best to tell them one needed to be not spicy. Well something got lost in translation. Moral of the story here is that I conquered my adversity to spicy food. It was a bowl of soup with long noodles, a plethora of spices, and two lamb bones. Cheryl instructed Johann and I on the easiest way to eat noodles with chopsticks. We ate for a bit. The waitress brought us all tissues because all our noses were running due to the spicy food. Then Cheryl handed us each straws. The idea here is you drink the marrow out of the bones. It wasn't my favorite, but it wasn't terrible. Then Cheryl said the best quote of that day. "Life is so funny. Here we are on ... What day is today? April 8th?! Oh my God... Anyway, here we are on April 8th and you're sucking marrow out of a bone in China." Life is so funny. But so wonderful.
Somehow in conversation, it had been brought up that neither Johann nor I had had a Chinese foot massage yet. Cheryl gasped and took us to her favorite spot. We waited for a bit before they took the three of us to a room upstairs. As we walked in, a man and woman were fixing their shirts and pants as they left the room. I told Johann he wasn't allowed to have that part of the massage.
They soaked our feet in unbearably hot water first. Johann and I desperately asked for cold water. They added more and more and finally looked at us with the ultimate "Seriously Americans? Come on" look. So the two of us gritted our teeth and let our feet slowly adjust to the scalding water. Johann was the epitome of uncomfortable from the start to the end. The three women would try to talk with us. Cheryl would interpret as best she could. The first question to Johann was if he wanted to marry the girl massaging his feet. I got a good laugh out of watching Johann's face of confusion and discomfort. The massage was a success though and felt wonderful on the aching feet.
We stopped at a wet market before heading home. The wet market had everything from bags of gluten, to blocks of lamb's blood, to fresh fish, to every vegetable imaginable, and the best fruits you could ask for. Johann and I packed our backpacks full of fruits and then carried bags of even more fruit home.
We went home via bambam. The moment I heard the name Bam Bam. I knew the title of the post had to be "Not with a Bang, But with a Bam Bam." It's just perfect. So in reality it was a small part of the two day, but the name was to perfect to pass up. Anyway. What is a bam bam you ask? Essentially it is a mini taxi. With the wheels of a motorcyle, a little cart type seating behind the driver, you can fit four comfortably. Who knows how many uncomfortably. It is very cheap and was a fun end to the day.
Did I say the end of the day? Ha! Let me try again. When Johann and I got home, I played guitar for maybe a half hour. Then I prepared a basket of fresh strawberries in a sugary dessert for the night. Then Johann and I went to the hotel on site for dinner with Brian, Mike, Arleen, and Andrew. Mike as per usual became the intercessor for hungry people and chefs. Dinner was a hot pot. A bowl with two different flavored broths is set over a flame. Then many dishes of meats, vegetables, and whatever you -or really what Mike dictates for you- want is brought out. You cook piece by piece in the flavoring. There is a station where you can create your own sauces to your preferences. Dip the cooked piece of whatever into the sauce. Then bon appetit! The problem comes about when you're full and think it's okay to just have one more piece... then one more piece... and so on. That's a pretty decent problem to have, in my opinion.
A great night? Yes. But this morning I was more than slightly unhappy with the fact that Cheryl was meeting us early to go to another spot. I chugged some coffee, grabbed a jacket, and rallied. I am starting to wonder if that should have been the title... "Rallying: By Rebecca Boniek." Because that has a lot to do with today.
We went to a spot called Linghai. It is an hour or so from the site. The three of us and Cheryl's friend, Shelly, headed off. When you arrive in the town, you enter through a gate in a big wall. It opens up to this whole village. The first thing we did was go up the steps paralleling the wall towards the Buddhist temple. It was Johann and I's first temple experience. I know not our last though. It was spectacular. People were everywhere. Not crowded necessarily. It just was obvioius the temple was used. We watched a few ceremonies. We listened to monk's singing. I watched a woman tearfully light incense and mumble chants. The temple itself was beautiful. Gold decorated the walls and carefully adorned all areas. Incense filled the room. Candles burned creating a scene of serenity.
Different buildings were connected by staircases ascending the hillside. Cheryl and Shelly waited about hafway up. Johann and I ventured upwards. The farther up we went the less buildings there were and the more paths we found. The green plants covered the earth next to us. The noise of the city below didn't reach us. Instead our ears will filled with the peace surrounding us. Johann and I both commented on how it is easy to see why a religion with this area of nature could focus on meditation and connecting with the area around you. We kept climbing upwards until we found the highest tower above the city and temple far below.
When we reached the tower, I found a little door. The staircase up to the top was narrow to say the least. Johann and I obviously HAD to go up! The walls of the staircase were tight enough that if you flexed your shoulders out,, you couldn't move. The stair were steep enough that the heel of the first person was almost eye level with the second person. The top of the staircase honest to goodness ended at a wall. Not even a place to turn around. But there was a window! You had to army crawl your way to the edge of the window, but once you did... Once you did, the views were spectacular. I felt like there was some metaphor about having to climb a small, dirty, cramped tower to have the view. I was to tired to make any real connection though. So I just stared at the beauty in front of me.
Neither Johann nor I really knew if we were allowed to be up there. So when other people showed up, we scampered back down quickly. We worked our way back to Cheryl and Shelly.
As I mentioned earlier, the town is enclosed by a thick wall. Imagine a smaller Great Wall of China. In fact, they call this The Southern Great Wall of China. It is 5000 meters long. We bought tickets to walk this. It not only was very impressive to be walking on a sturdy standing wall built in the 200's, but it also lent itself to pictures very readily. The scenes were perfect. Johann and I printed up some stairs in order to wake ourselves up a bit. Then we would regret it as soon as we reached the top, gasping out a sentence about how out of shape we are. It is easy to say this is a spectacular spot. For a small town, they have capitalized this spot very well.
We spent the day wandering around on the wall and exploring the town below. Cheryl and Shelly shared stories and guidance that made the day that much better. Our timing was perfect. Right as the rain began to pour, we got back in the car to head home. All of us fell asleep as the driver wove his way through traffic. Thanks to the nap I was capable of making dinner for Johann and I. We are both settled in for an evening off. Maybe... Who knows. The adventure always goes on!
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