Yesterday, Elisa and I began our day with a walk around the fields next to their land. It was a nice little jaunt, but finally we decided to get dressed to go to the festival. We got to the festival around 1pm, which meant we had one hour to walk around before lunch. We found a tent of hawks and owls, which was neat to see. We mostly walked through the other half of the street markets. The air was frigid and it even rained a bit. But we saw amazing shops, got chocolate crepes and hot wine, and enjoyed looking at all the stands. From jewelry to roasting pigs to handmade soaps, they have everything they can possible offer.
On our way back to the tent, a group of singers and musicians were performing. They were in full costumes. If we are being honest, they kind of looked like K.I.S.S. members. But they played great songs and the crowd loved it. They weren't being paid. They were just people from Teruel having fun. In fact, Elisa said one of the women in the group is the town's judge!
Back at the haima (tent), Elisa's family worked hard at lunch. They were making a tradition Spanish dish called gachas. It's corn, flour, and boiling water mixed together. José and Nacho, Elisa's brothers, took turns mixing it in a big mixing pot as the other men watched and offered advice. It's not the main dish, obviously, as you combine it with things. Nacho warned me you have to have a strong stomach for it. He was right. It's very dense and filling. While it wasn't my favorite dish, it was fun to see them make it in such a traditional fashion. We all sat down at one long table to enjoy a spread of lunch.
After lunch, as we were talking, a girl came up to me and said, "Come outside." Outside were two girls, Beatrice and Yestimani. We were all very excited because we all spoke fluent English. Beatrice, or Bea, is from Teruel and Yestimani, or Yesti, is from Belgium. They are both English teachers and they met doing an exchange type of program for teachers. Yesti is visting Bea for the weekend to see the festival. Yesti speaks Greek, French, English, and Dutch fluently. Bea speaks English and Spanish fluently, but many others fairly well. We started talking and got along very well. Yesti was just as excited as I was to have someone to speak with that didn't know Spanish.
The three of us decided to go to the main plaza because the bull would be running then. They weren't big fans of it, but I really wanted to see it. So we went. As we went there, Bea warned me to really be watchful. She told us stories of how she watched an Australian guy die a couple years ago because he didn't take it seriously. The bull is on ropes but that isn't fool proof. Basically they run the bull in circles around the plaza over and over again. There's no real protection so Bea made sure we stayed close to stairs that we could go up if he got loose. It's also scary because there are so many people you can't always see the bull. So sometimes the crowd starts running backwards. You just have to assume the bull is coming towards you and start running with them. It was fun to see. Yesti pointed out that it's off because you aren't proud that you are watching a bull be taunted, but you're proud of watching a tradition be upheld. It's an odd mixture of adrenalin, worry, pride in history, and yet sadness for the bull. Nonetheless, I'm very glad I got to see it.
After the bull, the three of us headed to a new bar in Teruel to get drinks with Bea's friends. They sat and talked in Spanish as Yesti and I discussed politics, history, traveling, exchanges stories and mostly were just excited about speaking English.
Finally we left there to go dancing. One of Bea's friends, Eva, joined us. We went to a place called Teruel. Yes, the bar was named Teruel. Basically imagine being sardines packed together. Now make those sardines people and add music so loud you can't hear yourself yell- literally. Maybe I'm just an old woman but I couldn't help think, "Really? The music needs to be this loud?" But it was fun nonetheless. The crowd jumped up and down shouting with Spanish and American songs. It was really a good time.
After a while we had to leave. An important event was happening in the main plaza. Diego and Isabel's almost kiss was being acted out. The crowd prevented us from getting close. Luckily the big screens showed us what was going on. Isabel stood on a balcony. Diego ran through the crowd, climbed up to Isabel and begged for a kiss. And when she refused, he fell dead on the balcony. The crowd gasped in the rights places despite knowing the story.
After that, we went back to the tent. I asked Elisa if it'd be okay if I spent the night with my new friends. She said yes and told me when to meet her the next morning. The four of us then went and got some food. After a bit more dancing at Teruel, I asked Bea to show me her apartment. I fell asleep as they went back out dancing more. I was plenty tired though. I quickly fell asked for a short night's sleep.
I woke up to a windy cold day in Teruel. Eva had gone home. Yesti, Bea, and I enjoyed breakfast before heading back to Teruel. This morning was important as well. It was the burial of Diego and Isabel.
So, I've mentioned crowed squares in Teruel. Well none of them compared to this morning. Every plaza and street was wall to wall, shoulder to shoulder people. They finally restricted where you could go because they were worried about safety measures due to so many people. So we stayed in the main plaza and watched the show on the screen. It starts with the processional of Diego's funeral. This went through all Teruel, starting with the main plaza. A long processional of mourners, warriors, family, musicians, Diego himself, and much more circled through the square. The actors perfected it. Tears truly streamed down their cheeks. Yesti commented it's as if they are mourning for any moment in life they didn't live the way they wanted to. I liked that a lot. Isabel watched from a balcony and wept.
They take Diego to the cathedral where they hold the "funeral." They go through people mourning for Diego, a song is sung. It was incredible how every street and plaza was silent. It was if they were really mourning Diego. It was a powerful scene to say the least. Finally Isabel comes forward. She goes to kiss Diego and dies there. It's an uproar. The father says they need to be separated. But Isabel's husband, Pablo, steps forward and shouts no. They must be buried together. He puts his wedding ring on Diego and says they are meant to be together. So they put Isabel on another bed and finish the processional back through town. Yesti, Bea, and I maneuvered so we were closer to the processional. We did better than expected because we were in the front as they went by. It was incredible.
The processional goes to another plaza where Diego and Isabel are showered in rose pedals, then taken in a building. They go up to a balcony and walk out together. A woman sings a song about their love. Bea told us the song was like the soundtrack of the story and was used every year. Finally, the moment every one is waiting for, Diego and Isabel kiss. A woman tells of their love. How love like this goes past the grave. How powerful love is, more than death or life. She told travelers who have come to tell Diego and Isabel's story to honor love. And then she told 90,000 people in every street to kiss because "with every kiss in the name of love, you honor Diego and Isabel's love." I watched as people all around me kissed. Not just couples, but mothers to children, friends to friends, any love that could be shown, wasshown before me. Now that is powerful.
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